August 03, 2014

Couturier Charles James on…“Clients whom I would have liked to dress…”


If you have the opportunity to visit the exhibition Charles James: Beyond Fashion at the Metropolitan Museum (closing August 10), don't skip the small room devoted to the designer's archives. James was clearly aware of his place in fashion history and made sure to document his influences (including Jules Pascin, Kees von Dongen and Christian Berard) and opinions on his contemporaries ("Illustrative Designer-Artists whom I abhorred and thought in their pretention to represent fashion disgraced it: ERTE").

Here are a few of the bodies beautiful he would have liked to have dressed – "…Some I could have but did not":


Gertrude STEIN.
Massive elegance; great style.

Princess MARGARET ROSE.
Born a fairy princess to charm and court discipline; become [sic] sad with time.

Mrs William BUCKLEY New York.

Smart, imaginative, ready to develop taste; still lacking it.
Miss Lana TURNER
Beautiful and far greater actress than recognized.


Miss Greta GARBO New York
Need I say?

Top photo courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art:
Brown silk chiffon, cream silk satin, brown silk satin, dark brown nylon tulle
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Purchase, Friends of The Costume Institute Fund, 2013 (2013.591)
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Saying Goodbye to one of the Finest Rooms in America

When asked to select my all-time favorite American interior, one room has always sprung to mind first and foremost: Mr. and Mrs. John Gutfreund’s “winter garden” sitting room at 834 Fifth Avenue. In this lush oasis of fresh lettuce greens and delicate pinks, the hustle bustle of New York’s concrete streets outside those silk -festooned windows melts away.